So, we left Tonsina River Lodge around 10am yesterday and began the long drive up to Fairbanks. I think it’s safe to say that this was the most spectacular part of the route yet, as hopefully the pictures will illustrate. There isn’t really much to write actually, we just drove along the highway, listening to Peter’s iPod and making redundant and ineffectual remarks about the beauty of the landscape. Words are just too small and insignificant to capture the majesty of this place; at least mine are.

 

We did manage to liven things up with a near death experience, however. Actually, it was probably more life-affirming than near death. We were driving by this frozen lake and decided it was incumbent upon us to go down and walk upon it.

 

We pulled the car over by the side of the road and, just as Peter switched off the engine, Willy Nelson started to sing “Crazy”. We looked at each other and climbed out of the car, but already our inordinate sense of our own invincibility was beginning to wane.

 

“I’m crazy for trying,” sang Peter, “I’m crazy for dying”. “And, I’m crazy for following you”, I sang back. In hindsight, Willy Nelson may well have saved our lives.

 

Peter began the trek down the hillside to the lake. He was three or four steps along when he disappeared up to his knees in snow. “Woah!”, he cried, “You know, I reckon there are many people who have unwittingly started the last 20 minutes of their lives just like this.” With that unnerving insight, we climbed back into the car and drove on.

 

Shortly afterwards we arrived at Summit Lake; a small hamlet on the summit of the mountain, by another frozen lake. In the 3 or 4 miles leading to Summit Lake, the outside temperature dropped from 4F (-15C) to -22F (-30C)!!! Peter was reading off the temperature every few seconds as it dropped, degree by degree. It was incredible to think that there could be such a huge difference in temperature across such a short distance.

 

Once we left Summit Lake, the temperature started to rise quickly, leveled off at a balmy 4F and began a much more gradual descent as we continued on towards Fairbanks, where we are now.

 

Last night the temperature dropped to probably -32F (-36C). Outside today it’s somewhere around -7F (-22C). And people are cycling.

 

Man, Alaskans are tough!